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The pedal will stick to the floor with high rpm shifting. I can let off the gas between shifts and the pedal comes right up. Should I get rid of the Over center spring under the dash? I have read this spring is not necessary with a diaphragm type p plate. I suppose I can just let off the gas when shifting but what fun is that.
Dec 28, Sounds like your over centering the psi plate. The weights are keeping it disengaged at a high rpm when taking over center.
I put some fancy race clutch in a Saab and had the same problem. So I talked to the man that made it and told me to send the flywheel clutch and pressure plate to him. So I did and when I put it in it worked fine but have no idea what he did. What rpm is this happening at? I believe the clutch over center spring under the dash is there to assist with the Borg and beck type pressure plate.
AC Compressor Clutch Diagnosis & Repair
I think GM did away with the over center spring in 62 or 63 and started running a spring from the bellcrank to the firewall.On my way home today, all of a sudden my car starting losing power around rpm.
Clutch Disengaging at high RPM? Also checked the other fluids while I was at it and those are fine. Can someone help me figure this out?
Dragging clutch maybe? Could it be the linkage? The clutch worked just fine until today. Last edited by Ben; at AM. Does clutch slip normally happen so abruptly?
I'd figure it'd be a gradual thing. This is my first manual btw It shifts fine but once I rev up to 4k it bucks and doesn't have throttle response Originally Posted by Ben Originally Posted by Cyber Originally Posted by Ghostvette. Originally Posted by Jayhovah. Yup, no-brainer. The most expensive part of this process is the labor. Might as well upgrade the clutch too, if only because I'd imagine a Z1 street clutch is probably far cheaper than OEM.
So I changed the clutch, CSC, and master cylinder, refilled and bled clutch fluid Could it possibly be the fuel pump? I'm hoping the mech did the complete job; flywheel, pilot bearing, and installed the pressure plate. My vote is back to the mechanic. The opening for the fuel pump is behind the passenger seat, the FSM has the location. I've heard of some folks having the fuel pump head break off and drop the pump to the bottom of the tank.
Phunk has the fix for that. Isn't the pump at the bottom of the tank anyway? The head of the fuel pump assembly has springs so that when you secure it, it provides constant pressure holding the rest of the assembly at the bottom of the tank. I think the most dangerous thing that might occur when the head breaks is that the assembly is free floating around the tank. Considering the fuel level sensor is also attached to that assembly, it will lead to inaccurate fuel level readings to boot.
Also, seems unlikely that it's the fuel pump if the car is running. I think the fuel pump is running at a constant cycle, more or less throttle has nothing to do with the fuel pump someone fact check me, pretty sure that's how it work.
There should be a separate mechanism that adjusts fuel input into the engine. OPs issue still sounds like a clutch issue to me. The mechanic should warranty his work considering he did not solve the original issue.
Hopefully you told him about the issue and didn't just pop by asking him to change your clutch without context.Posted by kingoftherosesJul 24, Featured Products from our Supporting Vendors. Activity Feed DSMtuners. Join the Community! Chat with others, create a build thread, post questions and answers. Get involved! Logging in will also remove many of the advertisements, along with this notice. RPMs don't drop when clutch disengaged Posted by kingoftherosesJul 24, Jul 24, 1.
Is this normal and if yes, why does it happen? It only settles at idle when the car is completely stopped. This doesn't make sense to me because the clutch plate and the flywheel are no longer connected when the pedal is pressed, right?? Jul 25, 2. Okay, so this is a really poor explanation, but I really just wanted to see if I was thinking on the right track. The motor in the car spins like your mixing koolaid in a jar, your hand aka clutch has got a lock on the handle, but when you let go of the handle aka motor it just spins for a little longer due to inertia and momentum.
Jul 28, 3. Jul 28, 4. My Centerforce DF clutch does the same thing. I think BigRand is on the right track with his second explanation. Usually what happens to mine is that after reving at high rpms going to redline frequently the rpms will idle at about until i completely stop then return to Jul 28, 5.
Jul 29, 6. This is all BS.During these challenging times, we guarantee we will work tirelessly to support you. We will continue to give you accurate and timely information throughout the crisis, and we will deliver on our mission — to help everyone in the world learn how to do anything — no matter what.
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We will get through this together. Updated: March 29, References. Issues with your transmission can be difficult to diagnose and even more difficult to repair for the average hobby mechanic. Often, even professional repair facilities will replace a transmission rather than repair it due to the specialized skills and equipment required to service transmissions internally.
Before you can assess your options for repair or replacement, you will need to identify the issue. While some transmission issues will be specific to certain years, makes, or models of vehicle, some things can be diagnosed fairly universally. Arm yourself with a diagnosis of your problem before seeking repair options to ensure you pay a fair price. Log in Facebook Loading Google Loading Civic Loading No account yet?
HELP !! AC Clutch Disengage @ WOT? Burning up AC Clutches Will
This article was co-authored by our trained team of editors and researchers who validated it for accuracy and comprehensiveness. Together, they cited information from 13 references. Learn more Diagnosing Common Automatic Transmission Problems. Narrowing Down Issues with Manual Transmissions. Related Articles. Method 1 of Listen for grinding.I have a problem with my Mercury Grand Marquis.
Whenever I press down on the accelerator, whether just picking up speed or going up a hill, the stream of cold air coming from the air-conditioner stops. In the hot summertime, you can be sweating by the time the air-flow resumes. Whether or not that is true, is there some way some adjustment under the hood to prevent that from happening? Well, it may be that the compressor cuts off under heavy acceleration, but I would suspect a vacuum problem letting the blend doors to close.
Your car sounds like it is operating exactly as designed. You can probably prevent this from happening by not mashing down quite as hard on the go pedal, thus preventing losing your cooling. You might just need or want that little extra burst of power when you find yourself passing a truck going up a long hill on a blind curve.
Does the airflow continue and get warm, or does the airflow stop or switch to the defroster outlets? If the airflow stops or switches, then you have a problem either with the vacuum check valve to the AC system, or a vacuum leak after the check valve. The blend-air door is controlled by an electric motor. The blend-air door controls temperature. The air direction dampers are controlled by vacuum. WOT shifts are hard on it so briefly removing the load should help. A lot of things changed in when the throttle control went from cable to electronic.
There is a built-in throttle trim that accompanies shifts. Some find it annoying, but it probably saves on transmission clutch material. Almost all these things can be changed by someone that does custom PCM tunes, but it will be costly.
I am not sure about s, but earlier models could probably be modified by monkeying with the AC WOT cutout relay. The OP definitely needs to answer the questions, it this at near WOT only, and is it a temp change or an airflow redistribution.
It does, however, seem like it is not acting normally. EllyEllis July 5,pm 2.
Beadsandbeads July 5,pm 6.Discussion in ' V8 5. We are having issue burning AC clutches at will. Also 4 deep for AC compressors. Shimming and measurements have been checked and rechecked every time.
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During low rpm driving seems to be fine, half throttle or more AC clutch gets spun, burns up and fails. Running 75MM upper and 5 OD.How to Fix a Sticking Clutch in Your Car (Master and Slave Cylinder)
Making 18 lbs boost. VMP is saying it is shimming but has been checked and measured so many time. We have to be missing something? Prior set up, was stock motor, Roush SC6 Rib for 3 years.
No issues under WOT or any other throttle position. Anyone ever encountered this issue? If so how resolved? Any input is helpful. Car has been sidelined for a month because of this.
Please don't say turn off AC. Unless I am driving like a grandma, ac clutch fails as soon as I accelerate. Vehicle s : Grabber Blue 5. AC clutch is supposed to disengage after a certain RPM, yes. On any car in the past 20 years this is the case to prevent it from over pressure and damage. Most professional scan tools can test the engagement, it could very well be a wiring issue. Pull the fuse and see if the clutch is still engaged with the motor running? Be aware the air gap for the clutch is very small and precise and has to be shimmed to a certain spec to prevent drag from running it all the time.
You must log in or sign up to post here. Show Ignored Content. Replies: 0 Views: Chrislong18 Mar 14, Replies: 7 Views: Chrislong18 Mar 17, Clutch release technique help! Replies: 23 Views: 1, Intrepid Dec 30, There are several different compressor designs, but all perform the same function: they move, or pump the refrigerant throughout the system, and they compress the low pressure vaporized refrigerant into a high pressure vapor.
Compressors may be of a piston, rotary vane or scroll design. Piston style compressors are the most popular, and are either in line, V-type, radial, axial or wobble plate. The most modern compressors are of a multi-piston design, ranging anywhere from 4 to 10 cylinders.
Clutch pedal sticking with high rpm shifts
Some compressors change displacement while operating, and have an effect on refrigerant flow in the system. Most modern compressors have a clutch and drive pulley. The pulley turns whenever the engine is running, although the compressor clutch is not engaged when the air conditioning is turned off. Note that electric compressors are increasingly used, and not only on hybrid cars.
Special oils are used to keep the internal windings from shorting to the compressor case, and even small contamination with PAG left over in your service equipment is enough to cause total system failure. When certain malfunctions occur, high-side pressures could exceed the safe operating limits of the compressor, hoses, or other components. To prevent this from happening, many systems are equipped with high-pressure cutout switches.
These switches open the clutch circuit in the event that pressures become excessive. This function shuts down the compressor and stops the pressure from climbing higher. This serves two purposes; it protects the compressor from damage, and prevents venting of refrigerant through the pressure relief device if equipped.
Once repairs are made, the switch will allow normal clutch engagement. Some vehicles are equipped with low-pressure cutout switches. The purpose of this switch is also compressor protection. The compressor clutch circuit is opened if the pressure in the system drops too low. This would be an indication that the system has lost some or all of its refrigerant charge. Since the lubricating oil is carried by the refrigerant, a loss could cause damage to the compressor if it were allowed to operate without sufficient lubrication.
In non-automatic temperature control systems ATCthe function of the ambient temperature switch is to inhibit compressor clutch operation in cold ambient temperatures.
This sensor opens the electrical path to the compressor clutch when the temperature is below a specified range. This function mainly protects the compressor from poor or no lubrication, which could be the result of cold refrigerant oil. Electronic Compressor Controls Although many of the controls used in automotive air conditioning systems are simple electromechanical switches or other devices, electronic control is now being used, as with engine management and body control computers.
Compressor clutch engagement can be determined by the computer when conditions like engine coolant temperature, ambient temperature, throttle position, engine load, etc. If conditions are right, the ECM sends a command to engage the compressor clutch. Conversely, when a problem is detected where conditions are not optimum, the compressor is disengaged by the ECM.
Some of the most common sensors that computers use to help them make clutch operation decisions are:. These sensors are thermistors, which are resistors whose values change with temperature.
Under cold or hot engine, or cold ambient temperature conditions, compressor clutch engagement may not be desirable. When the accelerator pedal is pressed all the way to the floor, this switch opens the electrical circuit to the compressor clutch to temporarily disable the compressor. This eliminates the load it places on the engine, as it is most often assumed that the pedal on the floor means it is more important to go fast at that moment than to remain cool inside the car.
When the accelerator is released from the floor, the compressor clutch will re-enable the compressor. The throttle position sensor reports to the engine management computer on engine demand conditions. It works in a capacity like that of the wide open throttle switch. These are engine load sensors.